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Sample journey · Piedmont and Lombardy, Italy
Langhe and Lake Maggiore: A Six Night Plan
6 nights · Best in: October, or spring and early summer · Suits: Couples who like wine, food and old houses
By Teri Fioramonti and Thomas Winslow · Updated
In short
Six nights that pair the Langhe, the Barolo and Barbaresco hills around Alba, with Lake Maggiore to the north: one night in Monza, two in the Langhe, two on the lake and one in a castle close to Milan Malpensa. It is built on our own week in October 2026, with one cellar a day and one serious dinner. It gives Monza one night less than we had and the lake one night more.
How we know: we were there from 13 to 19 October 2026. Read the trip: Piedmont and the Lakes: Six Nights in Truffle Season.
Tested we did it ourselves, with the date; for a hotel, we stayed the night · Seen we went in, or had a meal or a drink there · Recommended by someone we name and trust, not yet tried by us · Suggested our own research. How we label
The shape of the trip
We spent 13 to 19 October 2026 here, in the first weeks of the Alba white truffle fair, and we did every Tested item below ourselves, on the dates given. The plan keeps our order: Monza, two weekday nights in the Langhe, the lake, then a last night in a castle near Milan Malpensa.
It differs from our week in three places.
- Monza gets one night, not our two. The Villa Reale took us one morning, so the spare night moves to the lake.
- The lake gets two nights, not our one. Our boat to Isola Bella was canceled for rain, and a second night gives you a day in hand.
- There is no truffle fair. We had planned it for the Saturday morning, but we slept in and drove straight to the lake. One cellar a day had been enough, and the plan keeps that pace. If you want the fair, see below.
Day 1: Monza
Monza is about 20 minutes north east of Milan. We arrived on 13 October. For the night, ask us and we will suggest a hotel for your dates.
Derby Grill, Hotel de la Ville, Monza. Tested (October 2026) Have dinner here on the first night, across the road from the Villa Reale. We had tagliatelle with ragù, beef and grilled vegetables, and every plate was simple and superbly done: very little oil and a very hot, very clean grill, so the flavors are pure.
Day 2: The Villa Reale, then Ceretto and La Piola
Villa Reale, Monza. Tested (October 2026) We went on the morning of 15 October. Giuseppe Piermarini, the architect of La Scala, built it between 1777 and 1780. What stays with us is the blue dining room laid for a formal meal and Queen Margherita’s marble bath. The royal apartments close on Monday and Tuesday.
The drive south to the Langhe takes about two hours.
Ceretto, Monsordo Bernardina, Alba. Tested (October 2026) We booked the Shades of Nebbiolo tasting at 15:00 on 15 October. It was an extremely good tasting. Our guide was Carlo, also a sommelier at La Piola and Piazza Duomo. The Barbaresco Gallina 2023 was the wine of the day: brilliant.
La Piola, Alba. Tested (October 2026) We had dinner the same night at the Ceretto family’s trattoria on the cathedral square. Teri started with tartrà, a savory flan of the Langhe, and it was the highlight of the evening. She followed it with tajarin under white truffle. Book ahead in October.
Relais Villa d’Amelia, Benevello. Tested (October 2026) It was our home for two nights, on the ridge about 20 minutes above Alba. The staff are excellent, and reception books wineries for guests.
Day 3: Oddero and Osteria dell’Unione
Oddero, La Morra. Tested (October 2026) We went at 10:30 on 16 October, as Isabella Oddero’s guests. It is a seventh generation Barolo house with about 35 hectares, and it buys no grapes. The Barolo Bussia Vigna Mondoca Riserva 2020 was the one, a chai blanket of warmth and spice. October weekends are full, so ask for a weekday.
In the afternoon, rest at Villa d’Amelia before dinner.
Osteria dell’Unione, Treiso. Tested (October 2026) We had dinner here that evening. The plaque by the door says Slow Food was conceived here in the early 1980s. The food is simple and excellent, and the service is warm. Book by telephone.
Day 4: To the lake
On Saturday 17 October we slept in and drove straight to Stresa, about two and a quarter hours.
Villa e Palazzo Aminta, Stresa. Tested (October 2026) It is a grand lakeside house facing the Borromean Islands, run by the Zanetta family, with the largest collection of Murano chandeliers we have seen. The owners furnished it as their own collection, and Fabio Vigitello, the general manager, told us every painting is an original oil and every room door is painted by hand. In the kitchen, Fabio cut us Bettelmatt, made only in seven alpine pastures of the Ossola in summer, and Castelmagno at two ages.
I Mori, Aminta, Stresa. Tested (October 2026) We had dinner in the traditional room in the winter garden. We loved the room and the art, and the pasta was really good. For a main, next time we would order the Florentine steak.
Day 5: Isola Bella, or a day in hand
Isola Bella, Stresa. Suggested We had planned a morning boat to the Borromeo palace and its garden terraces on 18 October, and rain canceled it. This is the night we have added. If it rains, keep the day for the hotel.
Day 6: Castello Dal Pozzo
Castello Dal Pozzo, Oleggio Castello. Tested (October 2026) It is a castle in its own park above Arona, about 20 minutes from Stresa and close to Milan Malpensa. We stayed in the castle itself on 18 October. A handwritten welcome from Guendalina waited in the room, with a bottle on ice and sweets. We slept in the Guendalina suite, the bedroom Guendalina Dal Pozzo d’Annone grew up in, with the original bronze bed made in London, and the sunrise over the lake woke us. The family that has owned it for more than six generations is on site every day.
Day 7: Home
Have breakfast in the castle, then make the short drive to Malpensa.
Why this order
Monza is close to Milan and makes an easy first night. When we planned our trip, Saturdays from mid October to early December were full at the hotels around Alba and Barolo, so the Langhe fall on weekdays and Saturday night is on the lake. Sara at Villa d’Amelia advises booking early for September and October. The lake comes after the cellars, and the castle puts you near the airport for the flight home.
Make it your own
- The truffle fair, Alba. Suggested In 2026 it runs from 10 October to 6 December. Give it the Saturday morning before the drive north, as we meant to.
- Longer in the Langhe: Pio Cesare, Alba. Suggested Add a third night at Villa d’Amelia and a third cellar, in the center of Alba, by appointment.
- In spring. From April to June there is no truffle fair. At Osteria dell’Unione, eat outside on the terrace under the vine pergola. Aminta is open from April to October.
- For a honeymoon: Lake Maggiore, Stresa. Recommended by Giulia, who runs sales and operations at Aminta She calls it the romantic lake and would give it three to five quiet days, so add a third night.
- For tall guests: Suite Deluxe 107 or 215, or the Attic Suite, Villa d’Amelia, Benevello. Recommended by Sara, who runs sales at Villa d’Amelia The Attic Suite has a walk in double shower.
- Longer: days with a local guide, Benevello. Recommended by Sara, who runs sales at Villa d’Amelia Sara suggested days with a guide born in the area, and days out by Vespa or electric bike.
- With a driver. Book one for the cellar days, so that you can both taste. The Italian limit for drivers is 0.5 g/l.
Sources: our own notes, 13 to 19 October 2026. Our meetings with Villa d’Amelia and Aminta, October 2026. Our itinerary and supplier notes for the Langhe and Lake Maggiore, October 2026. The Michelin Guide entry for Villa e Palazzo Aminta, read 19 October 2026.
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